Will my car fail its MOT with the ABS light on?

An illuminated ABS warning light is an MOT failure item, so it's worth resolving before a test rather than discovering it on the day.

Can I drive with just the ABS light on?

Usually the ordinary brakes still work and short, careful driving is possible — but the anti-lock function may not be there when you need it, so it shouldn't be left. If the red brake light is on too, don't drive it.

Why did the light come on right after new brakes were fitted?

A common possibility is a wheel speed sensor or its wiring being disturbed during the work. It's usually straightforward to identify once the codes are read.

Can an ordinary code reader find ABS faults?

Often not. Many basic readers only see engine codes. ABS codes generally need a scan tool that can talk to the ABS module, which is what the attending mechanic brings.

Can the sensor be replaced at my home?

Frequently yes, where there's safe space to jack the car and the sensor comes out cleanly. Corroded sensors that seize in the hub can turn into a workshop job.

ABS light

ABS warning light on — what it means for your brakes

The ABS light means the anti-lock braking system has logged a fault and, in most cases, has switched itself off. Your ordinary brakes normally still work — but the anti-lock function that stops the wheels locking under hard braking may not, and that matters most in exactly the conditions where you'd rely on it.

It's also an MOT failure item, so it's not something to leave indefinitely. If the ABS light is on alongside the red brake warning light, treat that as more serious and get the car looked at before driving further.

Rolling Mechanics arranges an independent mobile mechanic to read the ABS codes and inspect the system where the car is parked.

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Anywhere within the M25 — and if you're a little bit outside it, we'll still make the effort to reach you.

What often shows up alongside the ABS light

Traction control or stability control light on at the same time
The ABS light appearing after driving through a deep puddle or a kerb strike
The light coming on only above a certain speed
A pulsing brake pedal at low speed when it shouldn't pulse
Speedometer behaving oddly or cruise control refusing to engage
The light coming on shortly after wheel, tyre or brake work
A red brake warning light on as well

Common possibilities

ABS faults are frequently sensor or wiring related rather than a failed control unit:

A dirty, damaged or failed wheel speed sensor — the most common cause by some margin
A damaged reluctor ring or tone ring on the hub or driveshaft
Corroded or broken wiring and connectors, particularly in the wheel arch where they get road salt
A worn wheel bearing allowing enough movement to upset sensor readings
Low brake fluid or a brake fluid level sensor fault
An ABS pump or module fault, which is the less common but more expensive end
Sensors disturbed during recent brake, hub or tyre work

What the mechanic can assess on site

Most ABS diagnosis suits a mobile visit well:

Read ABS-specific fault codes, which a basic engine code reader often can't see
Compare live wheel speed readings from all four sensors while the wheels turn
Inspect sensors, reluctor rings, wiring and connectors at each corner
Check brake fluid level and condition
Check pads, discs and general brake condition at the same time
Replace a failed sensor on site where access allows and the part is available

How booking a mechanic works, and what you pay

Rolling Mechanics is a booking and introduction service, not a repair garage. There are two separate payments and you'll know both before anything is confirmed:

Send us the vehicle, registration, symptoms and location — a map pin from your phone is ideal
We speak to an independent mechanic we know personally and confirm their expected price for the described work
You pay Rolling Mechanics a separate booking and introduction fee to secure the mechanic. It is not a deposit and it is not deducted from the mechanic's bill
The mechanic attends and you pay them directly for their labour, diagnostics, parts and repair work

Do the normal brakes still work?

In most ABS faults, yes — the conventional hydraulic braking continues to function and the system simply disables the anti-lock assistance. But that's a general statement about how these systems are designed, not a verdict on your particular car. If the red brake warning light is also lit, if the pedal feels soft, long or spongy, or if the car pulls under braking, treat it as urgent and don't rely on the brakes to get somewhere convenient.

When a workshop is the safer option

A seized sensor that shears off in the hub, a corroded hub needing removal, ABS module replacement and any work needing module coding usually mean a workshop. Anything that involves opening the hydraulic system and bleeding it properly is also better done where the car can be raised and tested. If there's any doubt about the car's actual stopping ability, the right answer is not to drive it.

We'll either get you back on the road, or our experienced mechanics will give you a solution.

Questions we get asked

What we can arrange

Where we cover

Request a mechanic

Call or WhatsApp us with the vehicle, what it's doing and where it is — you can share your location straight from your phone. Prefer to type it out? Use the request form on the homepage and we'll come back to you.

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Rolling Mechanics is a trading name of Symatec Ltd (company number 17217755). We introduce customers to independent mobile mechanics and charge our own separate booking and introduction fee — see our terms & conditions.